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This was really easy and hopefully other states are as easy.

Summary: Can be used for bikes with existing VIN or no VIN. Must not be stolen. Must have notarized bill of sale for all major components (can be from the same person, i.e. you bought a basket case of parts from one person.   Must have bill of sale for Engine/Tranny (two if they are separate), Frame, Front End, and body kit if it is a trike. Must have receipts for all parts (notice that I included multiple parts on the bill of sale that I created). I also used separate bills of sale (from the same person and the same date) to reduce confusion by the clerks that are trying to filter through all your details (CLICK HERE FOR EXAMPLE OF BILL OF SALE FORMS).  I also used an excel spreadsheet and summarised all the parts, prices, and referenced all the receipts. I recommend that you keep it as organized as possible. Label your receipts use a pen or marker and number them. Then next to your receipt in your listing have this same reference number. Organize them all in numerical order when you submit the receipts. Also organize them in two groups of receipts (receipts that you paid state sales tax and those that you did not pay state sales tax). You will be charged excise tax based on the build cost that you did not pay state sales tax on. In Oklahoma this is 3.5%. For items that you bought at the local stores and paid tax on are not subjected to the 3.5% tax (i.e. no double tax).

You must have the receipts for everything you can imagine (see my listing of parts in the attached file). Example it is better to list out the parts instead of listing “Front End” list it out like, Forks, triple clamp, neck bearings, front axle, front wheel bearings, front wheel, front wheel spacers, front rotor, front caliper, front brake line, front master cylinder, headlight bracket, headlight, etc…

Even though there are no state safety inspections, you will need to include the receipts for mirrors, turn signals, etc. That’s right, no safety inspections. After you do all your paperwork, once the state approves your forms, they will assign you a VIN # OK#######. You will need to die stamp this into the neck w/ at least 1/4 inch die. It doesn’t have to be professionally done. It is home built so should your stamp. After you get the stamp, then you go to your local tag agency with the bike and they will inspect the die stamp and your odometer reading (I bolted one on and didn’t hook it up).

My total wait time was less than 2 weeks to get approved and about a week after the tag agency inspection until I had my green title. The title will be a new original green title. This will not be a rebuilt or salvage title. It will be factory new and your bike will be registered as a new (year you submit your paperwork).

Not sure if it is included in the attached file but you also need to include a color picture of the bike.

Pros: It’s LEGAL! It’s EASY! It is CHEAP! Did I mention it is the legal way? VIN Swaps are illegal and why do it when it is so easy to do it legally? Also consider this, you don’t have to pay any late fees or back tags from bringing an old VIN current that you may think of swapping on (Keep in mind this is illegal and neither I or this site would recommend that you do a VIN swap).

Cons: Registered as 2010 (or whatever year you file your paperwork). This mans that you must comply with the requirements like mirrors, signals, etc. Since it is titled as new, your tags will be $93 per year for the first 5 years just as it would be if you buy a brand new bike. This will progressively get cheaper with age. Insurance companies refer to these titles as a “gray title” and you maybe limited on your insurance options. I previously had mine insured at Foremost and switched to Progressive and there are going to be more companies but some like Allstate, State Farm, & Geiko will not insure them. You can get full coverage but will need a professional appraisal to insure it for its true value (assuming its worth more than what you have tied up in it).

Search Words: Oklahoma OK custom builders title Form 761A-MC 701-6 Oklahoma Tax Commission OTC Motor Vehicle Division MVD Affidavit of Assembly and Ownership for Motorcycle / Trike / Automobile / Truck / Travel Trailer Homemade Home Made No VIN Vehicle Identification Number ASVE die stamp bill of sale receipts parts

Use this form for purchase of Engine and Transmission:

Bill of Sale – Engine PDF Version

Use this form for purchase of Frame and Parts:

Bill of Sale – Frame PDF Version

Use this form for purchase of Frontend and Parts:

Bill of Sale – Frontend PDF Version

Use this form for purchase of Complete bike.  Note if it is a parts bike, I recommend using multiple bills of sale for the major components above for home build paperwork:

Bill of Sale – Complete Bike PDF Version

Note, requirements may vary from state to state.  Example some states do not require public notary and some permit multiple witnesses.  Public notary is always the best policy in my opinion.

Download File here

Replacement options

• To tell the truth almost any 3 ohm or 5ohm Dual fire coil will work. 3ohm for Electronic Ignition and 5ohm for Points Ignition.
• 1979-1983 Cb750 DOHC Coils, these are great if you are running electronic ignition because they are a 3 ohm coil but when running them with a points ignition you risk the chance of prematurely burning up the contacts but I would not worry to much you should still get several thousand miles out of a set of points.
• If running points ignition you can replace the coils with chrome harley coils like these at Debrix Cycle. Note these will not fit in the stock location.

1. Remove the tappet covers from the #1 cylinder
2. Remove the point cover, and use a 23mm box wrench to rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees, and then proceed with the next step
3. Check the both valves of #1 cylinder if both valves are free, proceed to the next step: if either or both the valves are tight, rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees, and then proceed with the next step.
4. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the spring peg on the advancer assembly at the 1.4 position is to the right of the line fron the timing index. This postion is 15 degrees ATDC 1.4.
5. Loosen the cam chain tensioner lock nut, and back out the setting screw until the tensioner arm is released and moves in to take up the slack. Note: The tensioner is automatic. Do not use additional pressure to remover the tensioner arm.
6. Retighten the setting screw and lock nut, re-install the point cover and tappet covers.